Betta Tank Setup Guide (UK)

1. What You Need for a Proper Betta Tank

A betta can survive in a tiny bowl, but it won’t thrive. For a healthy, active fish, aim for a 20–40L tank with gentle filtration, a heater, and a lid. Here’s a simple checklist:

• ✅ 20–40L glass tank with lid
• ✅ Gentle filter (sponge filter or baffled internal filter)
• ✅ 50–100W adjustable heater with thermostat
• ✅ Water conditioner for UK tap water (removes chlorine/chloramine)
• ✅ Test kit (liquid kit is best)
• ✅ Fine gravel or sand substrate
• ✅ A few hardy live or silk plants
• ✅ Betta-specific pellets and optional frozen foods

Later on we’ll plug in specific product recommendations with affiliate links, so you can send people straight to tanks, filters and heaters that actually work.

2. Choose the Right Tank Size (and Why Bigger Is Easier)

In the UK, you’ll often see tiny “betta cubes” sold in shops. Ignore them. They’re unstable, hard to heat, and very easy to overstock.

For beginners, a 30–40L tank is the sweet spot. It gives you:

• More stable water parameters
• Room for a heater and filter
• Space for plants and hiding spots
• Better swimming space for your fish

3. Setting Up the Tank (Step-by-Step)

1. Rinse the tank and substrate. Use plain tap water only – no soap or chemicals. Rinse substrate until the water runs mostly clear.
2. Add the substrate. Aim for 3–5 cm depth. Slope it slightly from back to front so it looks nicer.
3. Place equipment (but don’t plug it in yet). Add the filter, heater and any hardscape (rocks, wood, ornaments).
4. Fill with tap water. Place a plate on the substrate and pour water onto that to avoid disturbing the gravel.
5. Add water conditioner. Dose according to the bottle for your full tank volume. This removes chlorine and chloramine in UK tap water.
6. Plant your plants. Add easy beginners like Java fern, Anubias, and floating plants. Avoid burying rhizomes directly in the substrate.

4. Cycling the Tank (The “Boring but Essential” Bit)

Cycling is the process of growing good bacteria that convert toxic fish waste into safer compounds. In the UK, this usually takes 3–5 weeks using bottled bacteria and test kits.

Basic cycle plan:

1. Add bottled bacteria according to the label.
2. “Feed” the tank with a tiny pinch of food or bottled ammonia.
3. Test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate twice a week.
4. Wait until you consistently read: 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, some nitrate.

Do not add your betta on day one. Waiting a few weeks massively reduces the chance of disease, stress, and early death.

5. Adding Your Betta (The Right Way)

Once your tank is cycled and stable, you’re ready for the fun part – adding your fish.

1. Turn off the tank lights.
2. Float the betta bag in the tank for 15–20 minutes so the temperature matches.
3. Every 5 minutes, add a small amount of tank water to the bag.
4. After 20–30 minutes, gently net the fish into the tank and discard the bag water.

Your betta may sulk or hide for the first day or two – that’s normal. Keep the room calm, lights soft, and don’t overfeed.

6. Ongoing Care: Water Changes, Feeding & Temperature

To keep your betta happy long-term:

• Water changes: 25–30% once a week, using dechlorinated tap water at a similar temperature.
• Feeding: 2 small feeds per day, 4–6 quality betta pellets, plus the odd frozen treat.
• Temperature: Keep the heater set around 26°C and double-check with a thermometer.
• Testing: Test water weekly at first; watch for ammonia or nitrite spikes.

7. Safe Tank Mates (and What to Avoid)

Many bettas are happiest alone, especially in smaller nano tanks. If your tank is 40L+ and your betta has a calm temperament, you can consider:

• Peaceful bottom dwellers (e.g. small snails)
• Very peaceful nano fish, added cautiously and one group at a time

Avoid fin-nippers (like some barbs), other bettas, and any bright, flashy fish that look like competition.

8. Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Keeping a betta in an unheated bowl or vase
• Adding the fish before cycling the tank
• Using sharp plastic plants that can tear fins
• Doing huge water changes that shock the fish
• Overfeeding (bettas are greedy!)

If you avoid these and follow the steps above, you’ll already be ahead of most first-time owners.